Making a briefcase by hand
Unlike the standard models that are cut by plotter, bespoke items are cut by hand. We use patterns to draw contours of soon-to-be case details. After that we cut drawn details with medical scalpel.
Then, if applicable, we bevel the edge of details to prevent the top leather layer from bulging even in several years of wearing, as the first; yet, secondly, this provides better feelings when leather is touched after finishing.
We use ruler to mark prospective stitch holes each 5 mm. It is essential at this stage to have number of holes of one sewing detail strictly coincided with number of holes of the second sewing detail. This time-consuming approach helps us to control product shape and sizes with mathematical precision.
After that, we use hand-punch to make holes according to the marked patches. One case has approximately 2000 stitch holes.
The thickness of leather is 3.6 mm. This thickness is too excessive in terms of some case details either from aesthetic or practical point of view; we mean the details requiring better flexibility. That is why, if applicable, we use special tool to cut off a leather layer from the opposite side of detail.
We try to avoid open edges for details with worst rubbing, for example, side edges of case frame, thus, these edges are finished with a strip of leather. It is better in terms of practice and appearance. Details with low rubbing are first polished by cleaning pad, after that finished with special polishing lacquer.
Ready details are treated with balsam that softens the leather, helps waterproof and adds gentle shine. During life cycle, we recommend to repeat the procedure regularly.
When every detail is ready, it is time for the most time-consuming process - it is stitching time that takes approximately 16 hours.
The details are sewn by hand. It is not just a tribute to old-fashion technologies; it is also a way to increase the product life because hand stitch is stronger than a machine one. When hand stitch is torn, a thread gets weak within this stitch only, and still the stitch keeps on holding the details strongly together. At the same time upon break of a machine stitch, a thread gets weak on both sides, and a stitch begins to run apart if you pull just one end of a thread.
We prefer to use vegetable tanned English Bridle leather in our production. Due to cylindrical coloring type, this leather gets older in a quite fashionable way, and some years later, you will notice noble patina on your case leather.
Usually the entire process of making a briefcase takes around a week if all the necessary materials are available. In case of the import of components it gets longer to 2-3 weeks.